From hip-hop prairie girls at Coach to a celebration of Americana at Calvin Klein to Victoria Beckham’s grown up chic to Alexander Wang’s revival of the catsuit… Observer fashion editor Jo Jones picks her 10 highlights from New York fashion week autumn/winter 2017 By Jo Jones
Raf Simons’s debut collection for Calvin Klein is on track to make the label the giant it was in the 1980s. Simons has cleverly embraced Americana, showing both menswear and womenswear, dressing them in almost identical looks. From prairie quilted coats, varsity knitted sleeves on nude sheer bodices to sporty trousers hung from the hip with athletic stripes up the side, worn with buttoned-up western pocket shirts and of course denim. The collection shone with technical craftsmanship and precision tailoring.
There’s a point in a woman’s life when she eases into her wardrobe and feels comfortable with her style. This season Victoria Beckham has realised this for her customer. Think masculine tailoring in heritage fabrics mixed with the frivolity of a midi-length chiffon georgette dress layered underneath the comfort of a roll neck. Beckham’s colour palette with inspired by the recent Paul Nash exhibition at the Tate.
This show felt like a parting gift to the New York fashion scene, as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have decided to leave NYFW to show during Paris Haute Couture to enhance their sales. The duo’s latest collection was full of ideas and exquisite constructions, like their collage dresses, oversized coats with zip detailing on the inside of sleeves and monochrome shearling coats. If building sales is key, then it was a smart move to promote their logo on extra-long zipper pulls of jackets and handbags. Photograph: Jimmy Bae/WWD/REX/Shutterstock
At Coach it was a nostalgic look at the great American landscape and prairie, referencing Terrence Malick – Days of Heaven, Badlands and Sissy Spacek mashed up with New York city hip-hop circa 1980. A ditsy floral print puffer jacket joined the growing repertoire of Coach outerwear, and the ever popular shearling coats and biker jackets were softened with floral and songbird appliqué and worn over midi-length dresses. The Coach girl plays between the masculine and the feminine. Hence the shearling-lined sneakers, fuzzy baseball caps and accessories.Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
Jonathan Saunders’s second season at DVF has hit its stride. Saunders knows his eggs or rather, his prints. Translating graphic patterns into embroidery and 3D textiles in a playful colour palette, coupled with, as Saunders says, “the importance of sensuality and the movement in his dresses.” These are clothes to live and party in. Wind machine any one?Photograph: Billy Farrell/BFA.com
Joseph Altuzarra took inspiration from Renaissance portraiture and Lady Macbeth to deliver a strong and ultra sharp collection. Inspired by the stern- faced Renaissance lady this resonated in the mood of the models storming the runway. Exquisite pearl-encrusted coats plus capes and sleek tailored suits finished with a lavish collar. The corset lacing over an argyle sweater and red peplum sweater over biker pants gave a strength to the collection, while jacquard and heavily embroidered dresses were given a tougher edge when worn with knee-high combat boots and leather opera gloves.
With a diverse casting of models including plus size model Ashley Graham and veteran Amber Valletta, sent out the message, the Michael Kors woman is sensual and strong and ageless. Showing softly draped dresses, skirts and blouses off set against sharp tailoring, trousers hung from the hip and jackets and coats were cinched at the waist with a wide belt. Cocktail dresses followed in liquid gold and silver lamé and revealed a leg through a split or slash detail. The key bag was a crushable soft leather, gripped close to the body.Photograph: JP Yim/Getty Images for Michael Kors
Assoulin’s show space was scattered with vintage sofas and chaise longues, covered in plastic as if for protection. Persian rugs and coffee tables set with tiered trays of pastries and tea created a cosy atmosphere. The collection itself had the same warmth. The models wore dresses cut from what appeared to be upholstery fabric. Two standout pieces were a floral puffer jacket with buttons on the back, resembling a Chesterfield couch, and a beautiful multicoloured patchwork embroidered silk robe perfect to add a little glam to jeans.
The UN for Ageing team have a lot of knowledge and beauty tips
By Emilia Benton By Line Isabel Cutter
It's safe to say we've spent our teen and adult lives on a quest for the secrets to silky, shiny hair. Wouldn't you know, the secret to achieving ultimate softness or the perfect hue could be right in your refrigerator or pantry, and your grandma might have been telling you about them for years! You may have rolled your eyes at her ideas growing up, but as an adult you're surely willing to try anything. Read on for 10 abuela-approved DIY hair tricks.
1. Honey and olive oil give hair shine:Honey is not just for tea and olive oil is not just for salad. The kitchen staples are well known for their softening properties, so grandma was right when she would suggest you sprinkle a mix of the two on your strands to make them healthier. Follow a simple heated recipe for the ultimate deep conditioner. Phone grandma after reading this or grandpa.
2. Mayonnaise works wonders as a conditioning treatment:Unlike chemical-laden salon treatments, mayonnaise is chock full of oils and proteins to leave your hair strong and well hydrated. "The oil softens the hair, making it shinier — and the protein in the eggs will make strands stronger," says hairstylist Nathaniel Hawkins.00:00
3. Adding avocado to a deep conditioning mask will boost results:Nature's butter doesn't just taste great, it also does wonders for parched skin and hair. Try a homemade mask made with honey and olive or coconut oil to achieve amazing softness.
4. Coca-Cola can give your hair a healthy shine:What the what? But it's true, even stars like British supermodel Suki Waterhouse turn to the soda for a just-back-from-the-beach look, thanks to its acidity. Just be sure to rinse your hair immediately after trying it!
5. Eggs help your hair grow:Who wouldn't love to speed up hair growth while dodging damage? Eggs are loaded with protein, a key ingredient your hair needs to regain strength. Mix one with olive oil to do the trick.
6. Lemon juice can lighten your hair:Skip the bleach for more gentle solution for natural highlights. It's just like a natural version of Sun-In.
7. Apple cider vinegar helps to detangle: We all know the frustrations that come with brushing out the tangles in your hair every morning. Try a few spritzes of apple cider vinegar as a natural remedy that will also add softness and shine. Bonus: apple cider vinegar is also known to help with dandruff!
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This information might change your life. By Katie Sweeney
To prevent an avocado from browning, spray it with a little bit of rapeseed oil spray. When I first heard of this concept, I wasn't sure if it was true. But I tried it myself. I ate half an avocado and sprayed the remaining half with rapeseed oil. Then, I covered it with foil and refrigerated it. Days later, I pulled the avocado from the fridge and was shocked it see it was not brown at all. Seriously, try this; it's amazing!
In that day the wolf and the lamb will live together; the leopard will lie down with the baby goat. The calf and the yearling will be safe with the lion, and a little child will lead them all. The cow will graze near the bear. The cub and the calf will lie down together. The lion will eat hay like a cow. The baby will play safely near the hole of a cobra. Yes, a little child will put its hand in a nest of deadly snakes without harm. Nothing will hurt or destroy in all my holy mountain, for as the waters fill the sea, so the earth will be filled with people who know the LORD. – Isaiah 11:6-9
During this season of Advent I’ve been reading sections of Isaiah for my devotions. Isaiah frequently expresses our great hope for peace, as you’ll see in the passage above. We yearn for that day when people will live at peace with God, one another and with all of creation. Perhaps these passages have resonated so deeply with me because they stand in such sharp contrast to the lack of peace in our communities, nation and world. While I believe that God is the One who will ultimately renew all of creation and make this world a kingdom of peace, I also believe that we are empowered by the Spirit to play a role in being peacemakers.
So, as we prepare to celebrate the birth of the Prince of Peace, how do we practice peace in daily life? Here are a few practices to consider:
Contemplation. I have become increasingly convinced that we cannot have true peace in the world until we have peace within ourselves. By “peace in the world” I’m not talking about the cessation of war, though I long for that too. Real peace, shalom, is more than the absence of conflict. It means wholeness, completeness, wellbeing and harmony. Most of us are running through life so quickly that we do not take time for stillness and reflection, and so our insides are like a snow globe that is constantly shaken. And that frenetic energy is too often reflected in the world around us. Practicing contemplation (often called meditation, mindfulness or centering prayer) is a powerful pathway to practicing peace daily. No practice has done more to create shalom in me than contemplation. Click here to learn more.
Mental Diet. The daily practice of contemplation inevitably makes us more aware of our thoughts and emotions (it’s stunning how unaware we often are!). We begin to realize not only how often we feel anger, hurt and frustration, but also how regularly we feed those emotions. We tell ourselves stories about people’s intentions. We write new endings to our stories in which we inflict the pain or win the battle. We rehearse these stories over and over which only feeds them, like putting more logs on a fire that’s burning you. Feeding our anger and our hurt only keeps us living in unreconciled relationships. Practicing praying for our enemies and those who have wounded us is a profoundly powerful discipline that changes our mental diet. It heals us and opens our hearts to reconciliation. Who do you need to pray for right now?
Blessing. I believe in the power of prayer. I believe that simply expressing an intention somehow changes the world around us. Which is why I practice blessing. As I make my way through the world – driving, walking, shopping, dining – I focus my attention for a moment on someone, whether friend or stranger, and pray, “Lord, bless her or him with peace and joy”. That’s it. I think about it as planting little seeds of peace and joy into the soil of people’s lives, having no idea what will grow. Try it and you’ll discover two things. First, you’ll be surprised at how often the individual suddenly turns your way and smiles. Seriously, it’s almost creepy! Second, you’ll notice that this simple practice begins to change the way you see people and the world around you. The truth of the Kingdom, that we are all connected in ways we cannot begin to fathom, begins to dawn in our hearts and causes us to fall more deeply in love with God’s broken and cherished world.
Jesus calls and empower us to be peacemakers. How can we do anything less when we follow the Prince of Peace? I urge you to practice these simple disciplines in daily life. Dare to believe that God is at work changing the world through you!
Jeff Marian serves as lead pastor at Prince of Peace Lutheran Church in Burnsville, MN.
Lucifer morning star The rising Sun --- Not the son of Man
Written Isabel Cutter
My nominee for 2016 person/deity of the year is Satan (aka Lucifer, Beelzebub, and the Devil).
Sure, there were other more important religion and politics stories this year. But never before has Satan been as visible–or as successful–in politics.
This incarnation “Lucifer in the flesh. When we first sw appeared before Chloe of the Corinthians we all saw the confessor. So may die around hell's son and yet we are gripped by him on our television set and on catch up days.
It’s one of the devil’s most effective: the offer of power. The person to take the the offering as a blessing... "Darkness is good,” Bannon said, Satan and darkness are positive power." The confession satifies your thirst for hunger yet another human is dead besides you Chloe. I question you Tobin Grant, He has angels of all colours... 2016: The Year of Lucifer
The girl next door had something to teach me
about what to air: On the linesome
body’s business gets told
then recounted; it’s best to thread a tale
for the neighbors, an orchestration
of sorts. But I am far from modest
in my telling of lies. There are three references
I put forward: each a past lover
who liked a different kind of underling
to his genius. You wouldn’t know it
from the delicates I rollin
to the yard. It’s all the same peek-a-boo lace
and stunted imagination.
Of course, all of this is scanty
truth. Who hangs anything out to dry
anymore, when invention
has halved the work?
By Rosa Alcalá